Where Tbilisi Remembers
Ravish Kumar
| 09-07-2025
· Travel Team
Tbilisi's cemeteries aren't just resting places; they're vibrant open-air museums pulsing with life. Here, intricate stone carvings rival galleries, families picnic beside ancestors, and history whispers from every weathered tombstone.
The juxtaposition of solemnity and festivity challenges convention, revealing how Georgians engage with their ancestral heritage. Forget somber silence – these sacred spaces offer a profound, uniquely Georgian perspective on memory and community. Ready to explore?

Didube Pantheon

Perched on a gentle hill northwest of Liberty Square, Didube Pantheon honors Georgia’s writers and artists. Entry is free; it’s open daily from 9 AM–6 PM. Take Metro Line 1 to Didube station (₾0.50, runs every 5 minutes), then a 10‑minute walk north. Spot ornate tombstones, pause at benches under ancient oaks, and witness locals laying flowers.

Khojivank Cemetery

Once Tbilisi’s Armenian necropolis, Khojivank now lies within Sololaki’s winding lanes. Open sunrise to sunset, this free site showcases 17th‑century khachkars (carved crosses). From Freedom Square, catch bus 11 towards Marjanishvili (₾0.50, 15 min) and alight at Vashlovani. Wear sturdy shoes for uneven ground and respect fenced family plots where picnics sometimes occur at midday.

Mtatsminda Pantheon

High above Rustaveli Avenue, Mtatsminda Pantheon presents panoramic city views. A funicular from Chonkadze Park (₾3 round‑trip, 10 min; runs 8 AM–11 PM) delivers you to poet and politician memorials. Entry is free, but donations (recommended ₾2) fund upkeep. Wander past era busts and modern gravestones, and stay for sunset over the Narikala Fortress.

Leghvtakhevi Necropolis

Hidden near the botanical gardens, Leghvtakhevi is a meditative space of moss‑covered stones and flowering shrubs. Open daily from 8 AM–5 PM; no fee. From Rustaveli station, take trolley 1 (₾0.50) to Botanical Gardens stop, then walk 5 minutes up a cobblestone path. Respect the quiet: locals visit at dawn to light candles and share bread at gravesides.

Vera Old Cemetery

Nestled in the artsy Vera district, this cemetery dates to the 19th century. Admission is free; open 9 AM–4 PM. From Marjanishvili metro, walk east along Davit Aghmashenebeli Avenue for 12 minutes. Look for weathered sandstone tombs engraved in Georgian. Weekends see small gatherings—families lay homemade pastries (please observe without sampling).

Saburtalo Memorial Park

Unlike formal graveyards, Saburtalo combines remembrance with recreation. Open 6 AM–9 PM, no entry cost. Take Metro Line 3 to Technical University (₾0.50), then a 7‑minute walk south. Here, flat headstones share space with playgrounds and picnic tables, illustrating the Georgian custom of communal visits—ideal for a respectful mid‑morning stroll.

Budgeting Your Visit

- Transport: $2-10/day (marshrutkas/taxis)
- Funicular (Mtatsminda): $0.70
- Flowers (Optional): $1-2
- Water/Snacks: $2-3
- Lunch: $5-10
- Total Daily Budget (Cemeteries Focus): $10-25 (excluding accommodation)

Photography Etiquette

While these sites beg for snapshots, approach with care. Always ask permission before photographing private plots—most locals appreciate a simple “შეგიძლიათ?” (“May I?”). Professional shoots require cemetery board approval (₾10 permit, apply one week ahead). Respect “no‑photo” signs, especially around active mourning rituals during Orthodox and Memorial Day.

Conclusion: Stones Speak

Tbilisi's historic cemeteries offer an unparalleled journey through time, art, and the Georgian soul. Here, death isn't hidden away but woven into the fabric of life with poignant beauty and communal spirit. Walking these paths, amidst stunning sculptures and quiet picnics, you don't just see history – you feel its enduring pulse. Pack respect, curiosity, and comfortable shoes, and let Tbilisi's silent storytellers reveal their unforgettable tales. Your most profound city exploration awaits among the stones.